Gown (fourreau), anonymous, c. 1910 Canvas Print
Gown, fourreau, with a short bodice of blue/pink changing tafside and a skirt of laize (machined lace) and ditto tafside, embossed with multicolored flowers. Model: single-length, sleek model. The short bodice blossoms into a point in the middle of the front. Skirt of laize (machined lace with a width size) with a pattern of oval medallions and flowers on tied ribbons. On the back from the waist a wrinkled strip crepe georgette, which ends in a rosette with drag(?); trimmed all around with a narrow open hem. Lined with white silk and white cotton inner body. Decoration: the neck and sleeves are trimmed all around with narrow taf silk straps. The multicolored embroidery of floss and gold thread owes the relief to rosettes of loops of floss silk through which thin iron wire (laiton?) is twisted. In the embroidery, stem stitch, interlock stitch and button stitch are used. From 1906, the Parisian couturier Paul Poiret (1879-1944) worked on a straight silhouette that would ideally make the corset superfluous. His sleek fourreaux in the Style Directoire and the Style Empire dominated the fashion scene around 1910. The gowns are then divided into threes, as it were. The plain-looking skirt is bounded above and below by the same fabric or decoration. A long slip of contrasting color and material seems to be the 'only' connection between body and skirt hem and is applied to the back with this gown. The mechanical side of this gown is probably inspired by an eighteenth century example. The partly highly reprocessed embroidery, on the other hand, follows the contemporary colors and fashion. As early as 1907, Poiret introduced embossed folkloric-tinted embroidery.
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