Overgown or manteau of silk brocade, with a cream-colored base on which multicolored silk, gold and silver flowers are woven, anonymous, c. 1765 - c. 1775 Canvas Print
Overjapon or manteau of silk brocade, with a cream-colored base on which multicolored silk, gold and silver flowers are woven. Model: the silk bodice is sewn on a form-fitting lining waist of heavy linen. The lining body is closed from the front with a lace that is strung through nesting holes from the closing pieces, which are connected to the leading edge of the front part. This closure is covered by a triangular breastpiece (devant the gorge). The leading edge of the front part of the silk body is folded over from the shoulder to below the waist, so that a flat fold is formed, which is sewn down and which runs along the décolleté and along the chest piece to the bottom of the tip of the bodice. On this flat pleat is an ornament, consisting of a pronounced strip of the same fabric as the gown, trimmed with a narrow gallon. The pronounced strip becomes narrower at the shoulder than the fold, which it no longer completely covers there. The flat pleat is laid right-wire (in the direction of the warp threads) in order to be able to be pulled tightly over the shoulder. It is then attached to the top of the back part. The horizontal top of the breastpiece, the horizontal top of the back and the two shoulder straps, together form a straight-threaded, so that the tension of the décolleté, so that the fabric is connected around the neck. In the side seams of lining and upper fabric, the chain is taken as much as possible in the longitudinal direction of the body surfaces. The fabric was not allowed to stretch, but had to close very tightly around the corset, which was completely rectilinear from the armpit to the waist. The heavy, woven silk contributed to this. The sleeves that close to the arm are cut in one piece; they reach up to the elbow, where three cuffs lying on top of each other and wrinkled are inserted, the widest below, the smallest above; from below they are lined with galon (cuffs and éventail). The inset of the sleeve reaches relatively far back on the back, because the upper part of the sleeve had to be wrinkled to the band-shaped shoulder piece of the front part, which had to run over the shoulder to reach the top of the back part. Peculiar is the narrow back of the lining body through which the shoulder blades are pulled back and the bust rises upwards. At the level of the waist, the front part of the overskirt is attached to the front part of the bodice next to the flat pleat that runs along the chest piece until just below the waist. The front of the front part of the overskirt is cut straight and although not with a flat pleat folded over, yet, like the bodice, decorated with a frowned strip, which is trimmed on both sides with a narrow gallonnetje. The strip is getting wider downwards and is twice as wide at the lower hem as at the waist. The front part and the back part of the overskirt are connected on silk by a vertical seam. On the back part of the overskirt is also the lower part of the back part, which forms the middle part of the overskirt with the pli Watteau, connected to a seam. The upper edges of the front part and the back part are sewn together to close to the waist, with a seam that lies horizontally on the wide-protruding panier. At a distance of 6 cm from the side seam of the bodice, a slit has been left on both sides, 15 cm long, and at the extreme tip of the panier the overskirt is laid in deep folds, because the panier is small there than from below. The lower centerline of den panier is from right to left, 160 cm long. The back part is partly cut up to the neck cut and therefore much longer than the front and back parts of the overroke. On either side of the vertical centerline of the back, the fabric is folded into a deep double bell fold. The folds are briefly attached to each other at the level of the waist, and extend widely downwards, where they lose themselves in the space of the overskirt. Under the upper part of the bell fold, the silk fabric of the back part is smoothly attracted over the back part of the lining body. Under the arm, the back part of the overgown is connected to the front part of the bodice with his side. From the front, the two front parts of the overskirt deviate diagonally outwards downwards, because the panier is wider from below than from above. In the opening, the tablier (half underskirt) is visible.
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