Sack-Back Gown, anonymous, c. 1775 - c. 1785 Canvas Print
Women's costume, "demi-parure" of glazed printed cotton with rarefied graceful pattern of vertical stripes and sprinkled bouquets, partially lined and sewn by hand. The costume, which is intended to be worn over a wide flattened hoop skirt ("panier"), consists of two parts: 1) a straight four-lane skirt with two hip slits for pockets, sewn to waistband at the back of the deep contiguous folds, for probably sewn in far apart folds on either side of a smooth middle section (is now modernized with wrinkles [1946]) and with at the bottom, only for, a wide pleated sewn-up aviator ("falbala") and a ruffle. 2) a four-lane gown ("manteau") from the front open and wider downwards, with small tow and with a white linen-lined gliding body with a wide angular neck, for form-fitting and with two vests that close with snags and whose long blunted slips depend, and from behind two double bell jar folds that extend from the neck wide over the waist to the skirt ("pli Watteau"), two sack slits in the hip from where triple folds go out, half sleeves cut from one piece in the transverse, set high in small folds and smooth to a point briefly over the elbow, and on which vague should be seen (from a strip?), perhaps a fan-shaped cuff ("and eventail"). Along the skirt hem is sewn a lining strip of white linen.
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